Zaunlkopf

We had just two days of our holiday left in Austria and the weather was once again good.  For this expedition I was with Judy (XYL) and we again caught the 08.50am bus from Seefeld to MIttenwald, alighting at the working village of Geisenbach, just before we reached the German border at Scharnitz.  

The six point summit of Zaunlkopf at 1756m high (SOTA reference OE/TI-656) was our target and I had planned out a circular walk of around 12 Km. The valley where we alighted the bus was at around the 1000m level in Geisenbach.  

The track taking us up the Eppzirl Gorge

Useful signage on our way to Oberbrunn Alm

We set off to walk 5 Km on the Eppzirlweg track (No.15) within a gorge with a fast flowing river alongside us. From the signage and our map we knew this would lead us to a mountain summer farm, known as Oberbrunn Alm, a hut which lies at 1523m in a majestic position above the Karl and Eppzirl Valleys.

Our rest stop for refreshments - Oberbrunn Alm

The farmers ex-military 4X4 Vehicle

We were hoping to have some refreshments when we reached the Alm and use the toilet. Never pass a toilet without making use of it is our motto. We then hoped to double back and make our way up through some woodland to the summit of Zaunlkopf OE/TI-696 which was about 1.5 Km NNW along the Mittagkopfsteig path (No.30). 

Cheers!

We reached the Alm (Summer Farm) before 11.00am and I ordered a beer for me and water for Judy.  There were four other people eating and drinking and the guest room was part of a large kitchen where the farmers wife was cooking food on a very large stove.  The beer went down well after the climb of over 500m up the mountain.  Just before we were presented with the bill we were given a glass of schnapps each. This tasted very nice. 

The generous farmer posing with Judy

A few minutes later after visiting the toilet the farmer himself appeared and gestured, speaking loudly in German, which we of course did not understand.  We said "English". To which he replied ahhh...ENGLISH! and hurried off to get something.  Seconds late he reappeared with another two glasses of Schnapps, which we did of course drink! It was good stuff and I soon felt slightly inebriated for a short time. 

Oberbrunn Alm - a welcoming place for refreshments

After taking the photos we made off in the direction of the six point summit of Zaunlkopf. After around 20 minutes walking we were parallel with the summit but about 300m down from it. We could not see a path, so we just  left the path using the GPS GOTO for direction through the wood to locate the summit. There was no view from the top which was more like a plateau in sparse woodland and once again there was a metal pole on which to fix the fishing pole and dipole antenna. 

This was a leisurely activation and after we had eaten our lunch I set up the station. Once again Roy G4SSH was first in the log on 10.118 MHz CW (Morse) and the best DX (distance) contact was with N4EX Rick in the USA on the 20m CW band.  I had 43 contacts in Morse but 20m SSB was poor. Repeated CQ calls using 100 watts produced just one contact with ON3VS/M in Beliuim.  I was on the air for 45 minutes and we left the summit at 1.30pm.

Operating from Zaunlkopf on Single Sideband Phone

The weather was excellent, hot and sunny and while I was making contacts Judy was able to read her Kindle in full sunlight.  The makers have perfected the display on those devices perfectly so they can be used anywhere.  

Some unusual fungi on a tree by the track leading off Zaunlkopf

Our walk down to Geisenbach for the 3.15pm bus involved a descent of around 750m mostly in woodland but the path was good, albeit a little loose in places, but we made the bus back to Seefeld with 15 minutes to spare. 

This was my last activation from this beautiful area in the Austrian Tirol and German Karwendel and Wetterstein areas of the Alps.  The four days spent activating produced 422 contacts over the 9 summits activated, giving me a total of 72 SOTA points towards the Mountain Goat Award. 

Hoher Kranzberg & Grunkopf

Two days after my epic climb over the Karwendel Klettersteig I chose an easier option.  The nearby 2196m high Grosse Arnespitze (DL/WS-036 and OE/TI-391) a border double 8 point summit was tempting, and had never been activated for Summits On The Air.  This however, was another unknown quantity, like my previous activation.  So instead I chose the 1391m high Hoher Kranzberg and the 1588m wooded summit of Grunkopf as these two summits looked more straightforward. 

I caught the usual 8.50am bus out of Seefeld, alighting at the railway station in Mittenwald. A funeral was about to take place as I passed the church and the locals in their national costume were gathering: 

From here I walked across the town to reach the Kranzberg Chairlift . There was a large car park by the lift station. A one way journey cost €5 and probably saved me around 45 minutes and 300m of ascent. 

The Chairlift to St Anton

Map of the summit area where the chairlift takes you

Reaching the top at St Anton - a short walk follows this to the summit of Hoher Kranzberg

The facilities on the summit of DL/WS-058 Hoher Kranzberg. The cabin is always open.
A local told me the webcam picture can be seen on German TV every morning.
See it here on the internet

My operating position on the summit of Hoher Kranzberg DL/WS-058

The single chair lift moves at 3.2 mph (as measured on my GPS) and takes you from Mittenwald up to St Anton. From there it is a 1 Km walk up the track taking less than 30 minutes to reach the SOTA summit of Hoher Kranzberg DL/WS-058.  Just below the summit there is an alpine style cafe / restaurant which opens at 11.00am

The summit of Hoher Kranzberg is set out for relaxation and the view down the valley is superb. There are wooden chairs for sunbathing, an unlocked wooden shed with verandah for when the weather is inclement and several benches. I chose one away from where most of the public where and set up my station on it. 

Whilst setting up my dipole antenna I placed to much strain on one side of my 5m fishing pole and it fractured above one of the joints around half way up. The cheap travel poles are quite thin walled. I was able to replace the damage with insulation tape, which has now to be put on each time I activate. I will likely replace the short pole as soon as I get back to UK and try to find a stronger version. 

I enjoyed an excellent activation using Morse and Voice completing 53 contacts in 45 minutes.  

Route marker for my chosen path - the 813

After packing up the station I descended from the summit to the valley south of me via the signposted path No. 813. I then bordered the shore of Ferchensee, an inland lake in the valley where there was a cafe and facilities.

Towards the valley bottom at Lake Ferchensee I saw this a large herd of farmed goats

Lake Ferchensee in the Wetterstein near Mittenwald

From the eastern end of the lake I took the 876 and then the 871 footpath (which again follows the German / Austrian border) to reach my second summit of Grunkopf DL/WS-052.  I lost the path in the woodland once for about 15 minutes, regaining it again after continuing to climb up through the woodland.

The walk between summits took me almost 3 hours - much longer than I had anticipated, as there was a significant height loss which had to be regained.  I was using a 1:50000 German Kompass map as my 1:25000 Austrian Wanderkarte map did not cover part of the walk.  

Mounting for my antenna on Grunkopf DL/WS-052. 

As I was setting up my antenna it started to rain.  Thankfully it was just a brief shower but it was worth putting on my jacket and trying to keep my transceiver dry.  Again I was mindful of the time and needed to be back in Mittenwald to catch the 5.00pm bus back to my hotel.  I had the time though to try all three bands, 30m, 20m and 17m and was active for just 30 minutes.

Once again Roy G4SSH was first in the log followed my other friends from Scarborough, Kevin G0NUP and Nick G4OOE.  33 contacts were completed in Morse, but only three (disappointingly) were made in voice on the 20m band with Terry GO0VWP, Bob G6ODU and surprisingly G4SSH! 

I finished off with the activation with a contact on 18 MHz with SOTA Activator/Chaser N4EX Rick in North Carolina. 

It's 3.30pm - would I make that 5.00pm bus in Mittenwald?
Yes - I can always beat the predicted times so long as I stay on the right route

It took me almost 90 minutes of steady downhill walking on a good path to reach Mittenwald. There was a bakery across the road from the bus stop from where I purchased and downed a litre bottle of Cola during my 15 minute wait for the bus, which took me back to Seefeld with another 10 SOTA points in the bag.  

The Karwendel Klettersteig ridge walk

The Mittenwalder Klettersteig Ridge Walk on the German / Austrian Border

Operating HF Ham Radio for Summits On The Air

Westlich Karwendelspitze DL/KW-008 & OE/TI-293  (Deleted March 2016)

to 

Sulzleklammspitze DL/KW-004 & OE/TI-628 (Deleted March 2016)

(Local times quoted)

Wanderkarte Hiking Map used on this walk for this journey
Seefeld bus to Mittenwald > Karwendelbahn Cable Car >
Summit Westlich Karwendelspitze then traverse of the Karwendel Klettersteig >
Summit Sulzleklammspitze > Kirchspitze > Brunnsteinanger >
Brunnsteinhutte > Materialsbahn bottom station > Taxi Seefeld 

I left Seefeld on the 08.50am bus to Mittenwald. The bus route crosses into Germany at Scharnitz which meant my Austrian Guest Card bus pass (€12 and valid for the length of my stay) had to be topped up to the tune of €1.90. 

The River Isel at Mittenwald - with the Wetterstein mountain range in the background
at this point the base of the valley is 933m above sea level

A 1 Km walk from the bus/railway station took me to the Karwendelbahn Cable Car which whisked me to the top of the Alpine Karwendel Mountain Range at 2244m.  The one way trip cost €13.50. My plan from there was to climb a further 150m to the summit cross on Westlich Karwendelspitze at 2385m.  I was to activate the summit  from the German side and then from the Austrian side of the border, claiming double points, before tackling the Klettersteig mountain ridge walk to Sulzleklammspitze where I would  activate  for SOTA on both sides of the border there. 

If my attempt was successful I could claim 40 points towards the Mountain Goat Award which I have been working towards since 2005. This was to turn into an epic walk in which I intended to celebrate 10 years of SOTA, even though it was only 7 years since I got involved in the scheme. 

Top Station of the Karwendelbahn 150m below the summit of DL/KW-008 & OE/TI-293
Cafe - viewing platform - and exhibition centre

The weather at the top station at 10.00am was fine, sunny and dry, temperature 4c. Some sporadic but patchy mist came in towards the end of the morning, but the mist soon burnt this off as it became hot.

DL/G4OBK/P - A 5m long travel whip and link dipole was used for the 30m/20m/17m band 

The signposted climb to the first summit was straightforward with some easy scrambling up broken rocks. There were some wire rope sections in a few places secured to the mountain side to hang on to when needed.  

The summit top was busy due to its easy accessibility - a young boy signs the visitors book

The small summit top was never free of people for the time that I was there, however I was able to set up my station on the other side of the cross where I could be seen by the public who were coming up to the summit to sign the visitors book.  This is a kept in a watertight metal box fastened to the cross, just the same as I had found on the Reither Spitze. 

The ice covered tin bath on edge of ledge

A shallow metal bath filled with water was sited where I was operating my station.  This had a film of ice around 1cm thick on it, even though it was the middle of summer.  I commenced operating at 10.45am on 10.118 MHz, which is known as the 30m band. This was after phoning my friend Roy G4SSH in Scarborough Yorkshire, who alerts the SOTA chaser enthusiasts on my behalf to my presence on our SOTAWatch website, needless to say Morse Code specialist G4SSH was the first callsign entered in my log, which I followed with 33 others in Morse and Voice over a 55 minute period. 

What I had to do now was identify the Austrian side of the summit and this was impossible to do where I was situated by the cross.

My view across to the German side of DL/KW-008 from Austria OE/TI-293

To be sure I was on the Austrian side of the summit I had no alternative but to pack up my equipment and drop down around 15m to cross a short col and set up my station above the col on the knarled crags which were definitely on the Austrian side: 

 Translation of sign: 
Only for experienced

Climbing Equipment Essential

Committed at your own risk

Exit point from the Karwendel Klettersteig

A climber passes my operating position on OE/TI-293
note the safety wires and drop to the left - commonplace throughout the Klettersteig route

The view into Austria from my perch on OE/TI-293

Martin DD0RM with DL/KW-008 behind

I set my station up at the exit point on the Klettersteig (Climbing route) and it was only a matter of minutes before the first (well equipped) climbers started appearing from above me, however fortunately for me for the hour or so I was there, only three groups of 2-3 people came across.  

As I apologised profusely  in my non-existent German, they all managed to negotiate me, my station and my antenna. 

Once I had packed up and was just ready to leave the last climber stopped for a chat. He was another radio ham - Martin DD0RM and we had a chat about SOTA before he joined his friends on the German side by the cross.  

Activity from the Austrian side produced a tally over an hour of 64 contacts on the 10, 14 and 18 MHz bands. 

Plaques on the Klettersteig

The quality of the map I was using was poor when compared to what the British Ordnance Survey produce but I'm glad I had it. I had also pre-programmed into my GPS the coordinates of the two summits.  

My next border SOTA summit along the ridge was the Sulzleklammspitze, shown to be less than 1.5 Km south of Westlich Karwendelspitze on path number 277.  What I was to encounter though was a far from straightforward route. All the people I had seen using the Klettersteig were well equipped with climbing harnesses, belays, clips and gloves and most were wearing helmets. I had a decent pair of Altberg boots and that was it. I was also carrying a heavy pack containing my radio gear, aerial and the usual hiking necessities.  

I left the summit the way I came up later than intended, at around 1.00pm  and took a path to a signpost at a point elevated to the Bergbahn and to the south of it.  Although it measured out at a mere 1.5 Km on the map the course of the Klettersteig used all manner of fixtures and fittings  to enable someone with basic climbing experience (and equipment - if required) to negotiate it. It was slow going as I now encountered a Via Ferretta of iron ladders, steel cables, wooden platforms, bolt fixtures into rock. a 3 feet wide chimney, loose scree and a cabin shelter perched at 2188m on top of a huge drop on my way over to Sulzleklammspitze.  

Here are a series of pictures of the ridge route to the SOTA summit of Sulzleklammspitze:

An early test of nerve on the Karwendel Klettersteig

Looking back to the route taken - hard to imagine I had traversed it

You cannot see the other ladders above these pictured
I should have taken the photo from further back as the shot does not do the height 
climbed by other ladders justice

Looking back down the ladders - the lower ones cannot be seen

One of several minor summits traversed on the way to Sulzleklammspitze

Sulzleklammspitze ahead - the route takes you around the left side to the bothy hut

Camel like rock formations above one of the cols

Scrap metal generated from repairs to the Klettersteig - turn left for the bothy - about 300m

Emergency bothy shelter before final ascent up to Sulzleklammspitze

The "Chimney" below Sulzleklammspitze

On my way across the ridge I passed some German climbers, a father getting his 11 year old son across - character building and finally two Scotsmen.  The distance of 1.5 Km was obviously far greater with descent and reascent of other minor summits along the way, and it took me around two hours to reach my target. I never felt unsafe, but then I have no fear of heights. Some would think I was foolish I suppose. The Germans and Austrians are very safety concious.  After the bothy cabin which is shown on the map as Notunterstand (2188m) the climb became easier as I climbed over alpine meadow up to the top of the Sulzklammspitze at 2319m. The two country summit here had only been previously activated once, in 2007. This was understandable owing to the difficulty in reaching it. The activator previously was Luk DD1LD.  I'd met Luk at Ham Radio Friedrichshafen  in June 2009 -  he's been a Mountain Goat for some time and he is still activating. 

The third & fourth dual summit on the German / Austrian Border - note the alloy pole antenna support

The nameplate fixed to the pole confirmed I was where I intended to be. I was grateful to the mountaineering club or tourist board or whoever, had fixed a length of aluminium pipe into the rocks on the summit that was a perfect support for my 5m fishing pole! 

OE/TI-628 Osterreich left and DL/KW-004 Deutschland right

As well as the aluminium antenna mount I was also grateful to find a border stone a few metres from my antenna which enabled me to be sure where I was sitting for each dual country radio activation. 

My seated operating position on a ledge on the German side of Sulzleklammspitze DL/KW-004 - some drop

The time was now 4.15pm as I started my activation of DL/KW-004 and I was concerned about how much time I ought to spend before starting my ascent down to either Scharnitz or Mittenwald. In the event I came down mid way between the two towns, and I would make the decision on my chosen route when I reached the col 300m below me at 7.00pm.  

The conditions were good and on the 30m and 20m bands I completed 49 contacts from each country in 80 minutes. Time was now short and I decided to omit 17m band operation so I could leave the summit by 6.00pm.  Whilst operating from the Austrian side I made contact with ZL2IFB (Gary) in New Zealand on 20m CW on the long path. I was running 60 watts from my last of three LiPo batteries. 

I started my descent and thought my climbing was finished - but I was wrong. I had to go over KIrchlspitze:

It always looks worse than it is in reality.....I had now to climb Kirchlspitze 2301m

There was always something to get hold off however.....and I felt quite safe

The route becomes easier as I pass several boundary markers ...and I see my first ever Chamois >>>>>>

I watched the beautiful creature for a minute, it watched me, barked, and then legged it....
none of these are resident in the wild in the UK

Another Chamois was seen some distance ahead of me as I dropped down to a col shown on the map as Brunnsteinanger:

Brunnsteinspize in mist - what a path - Brunnsteinanger Col is below me out of sight.
I wanted to tackle that path and go over the summit to Scharnitz but I was out of water and time

I continued down to the Col.   It was now 7.00pm and I studied this signpost at Brunnsteinager which did help me make a decision:

I now had 2:30 hours of daylight left and I was still at 2095m. To reach public transport I needed to get down to the valley which was at 933m - quite a descent with the time available before dark in unknown territory. To reach Scarnitz I would need to pass over Brunnsteinspitze, over the switchback in the photo 3:25, so I would get benighted if I went that way. So I opted to go west on path 291 down to Mittenwald with the advantage that after 1:15 I would reach the Brunnsteinhutte. Having survived on 1 litre of liquid all day, not having seen a drop of water anywhere, a drink was much needed right now.  The maps may not be as good as the ones we are accustomed to in the UK but the signage is brilliant.

After texting my brother in law back in Seefeld to say "don't expect me for dinner I am still at 2100m" I made tracks on a steep gravel switch back path amongst conifer shrubbery to reach the hutte at 8.00pm for a pint of cola, or at least the nearest thing they had to Cola, which was black but tasted like orange juice.  Pure nectar to me....

There must have been at least twenty people drinking beer and staying the night. This was the  Austrian / German equivalent of a British Youth Hostel, 1523m up the side of a mountain, with the nearest road 2 Km away and more than 500m below where I was stood.

Huge Wood Burner in the Brunsteinhutte

It seems walkers and climbers travel from hutte to hutte - this sounds very adventurous to me and something I would like to do if I ever got the opportunity. 

The verandah of the Brunsteinhutte 1560m ASL 8.00pm on 23 July 2012

I leave the hutte at 8.15pm for my taxi rendezvous at 9.30pm

After my drink and short break I was asked if I intended to stay overnight in the hutte. I told the young lady who asked me the question that I needed to get back to my hotel in Seefeld before dark and that the bus was no longer an option as the last one went at 5.00pm so I would need to catch a train from Mittenwald or Scharnitz which lies on the Munich to Innsbruck railway line to return me to Seefeld. The timetable in my rucksack confirmed that there was such a train.  At this point the hutte manager, who appeared to be the girls father, intervened and suggested that I may prefer to take a taxi, and he could telephone a local firm who would pick me up from the bottom station of the Materialsbahn (the cableway which brings up supplies to the hutte).  I accepted his offer. He arranged for the driver to pick me up at 9.30pm from the bottom station of the Materialsbahn. I set off on the well established path.

Sunset over the Wettestein as I descend through the woodland to the Materialsbahn bottom station

A reassuring sign is passed as darkness falls on the woodland path

I was underway again, refreshed and with a strong downhill pace on an easy gravel path in woodland. This brought me to the meeting point at exactly 9.28pm, just as the taxi driver was arriving up the rough track.

The taxi arrives to collect me from the Brunsteinhutte Materialsbahn bottom station

The €28 taxi ride was worth every cent and I was back in Seefeld by 9.45pm which was far too late to have my dinner in the hotel.  After a  shower I went into the town where enjoyed a large pasta meal and some beers and I felt literally "on top of the world", completely exhilarated after what to me was an epic adventure taking me 40 points closer to my SOTA Mountain Goat Award.  

Radio Equipment carried:

Yaesu FT-857 HF/VHF Transceiver with standard microphone (Power used 50-80 watts)
2 x 5000 mA LiPO batteries (14.4v)
1 X 4000mA LiPO battery (11.1v)
Coax fed Link dipole 17m/20m/30m
5m Fishing Pole
Guy ropes, bungees, tiewraps, tools, terminal blocks, tape, cord, logbook, pencils
Palm Paddle Morse Key

Also in the sack:

Camera, GPS, Compass, Map & Whistle
Small first aid kit, suntan lotion, painkillers
2 Mobile phones
500ml water + 500ml Coca Cola
Sandwiches, fruit and energy bar
Lightweight fleece
Lightweight waterproof
Pair of walking poles
Foam sit mat

Carried in Berghaus 35+8 Rucksack total weight: 13 Kilos

Two further expeditions were pencilled in for later in the week, a two summit day on the German side from Mittenwald and a single summit day on the Austrian side from Geisenbach. 

When I spoke to my special advisor (the  hotel receptionist!) the day after I completed this walk and asked him about the wearing of safety equipment on the Klettersteig he said that the usual problem is that walkers tackle the route and sometimes their arms tire mid way across.  This means they cannot hold on and so they get stuck. They can't continue and they can't turn back through fatigue and so the rescue services then have to get them off.  I'm glad this didn't happen to me.....I guess you make your own luck.  
I thought this was a story worth telling. It's a day which I will never forget....